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victor-de-sabata

The great musician Victor de Sabata, born in Trieste in 1892, conductor of the orchestra of teatro La Scala, an academic of Santa Cecilia, awarded the Gold Medal for Arts and Letters of the city of Milan, and decorated with many Italian and Foreign honours.

After a serious heart attack in 1947 due to overwork while in America, he spent a lot of time in Santa Margherita Ligure and Portofino because of its ideal mild climate.

Here, where he wanted to spend the last years of his life, he was very close to the young pianist Piero Lo Faro.

Recognizing his talent, he wanted to encourage him and attended manie of his concerts.

A person with a princely demeanor and a distinctly aristocratic presence, de Sabata often used to visit his friend Piero in his beautiful villa and take walks along the beach of Portofino. He lived in a suite in the Metropole Hotel and then in the Regina Elena where his great friend and doctor Ettore Alberti went to cure him and give him comfort.

He died in the Casa di Salute Villa Attilia, a sanitorium, in December of 1967.

Victor de Sabata
1892 – 1967

Portofino World, a World apart.

michele-cascella-portofino-1962

Michele Cascella arrived in Portofino in the 1930′s, but he had already begun to love the hamlet even before seeing it thanks to the stories of Salvator Gotta.

He was convinced immediately that it was the ideal place for a painter who valued above all, contact with nature, the open air, the sky, and the countryside. He therefore decided to buy a little two level house in the famous Portofino Piazzetta.

It had a small terrace where the eye could scan the range from the peninsula to the mountain. Later he also rented a little house beneath the Brown castle in the middle of the olive groves which became his open air studio, the house of Faffy as he loved to call it.

From those cliffs he painted the little piazza, surrounded by the olive groves which reminded him of Abruzzo.

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Among his many recollections, Gotta loved to tell about his first “non arrival” in Portofino.
“I was in Santa Margherita visiting Pastonchi and maestro Giordano. In the afternoon we decided to take a walk and chatting while we walked, we arrived just beyond Paraggi. There, one of the two stopped to say after that point there’s a little fishing village, Portofino, it’s not worth the bother to go there, we can return”.
Some time passed, this time Gotta came to Portofino invited to the Splendido Hotel by Raffaele Calzini, already a famous journalist of the Corriere Della Sera.
It was then that Gotta ‘s love affair with Portofino began, for that’s exactly what it was.
He rented a house, the San Martino, which is a villa just beyond the Piccolo Hotel, where Hauptman, the German playwright, had stayed. In that period Gotta ‘s stays were for the most part in the summer, during the winter he returned to Milan, to his house on Via Boccaccio.
Calzini and Gotta began to write about Portofino in the newspapers and to bring it to the attention to the Italians who until that time had favoured other vacation shores such as Viareggio, Venezia, and Capri. You must remember that our riviera owed its reputation to the good winter climate. The vacations were primarily during the winter and the vacationers were primarily foreigners.
Furthermore, this colony of foreigners who had “discovered” Portofino did not love the idea of spreading the news of this spot. There was a sort of guarded jealousy of their elitist choice. It was like an exclusive club, very hesitant to accept new members except for the few Genoese who from business contacts had developed social relations with the English and thus were able to penetrate the social circle.
Now, Gotta was breaking, if you will, the little court with his mission of publicizing the area.
During the second world war Gotta moved definitively to Portofino together with his wife Adelina and her elderly mother. His only son Massimo was an official in the Savoia Cavalleria and was one of the protagonists of the famous Russian charge.
Gotta lived together with other friends in a house that came to be called the “Alcazar” which was then destroyed in bombardments. Several Portofinians died as a result of these bombardments. Gotta then moved again to San Giuseppe in a one room house with his wife and mother-in-law.
Some episodes from this period are narrated in “Macerie a Portofino” (the Ruins of Portofino) written right after the war.
After the passing of the great storm of war he rented another house with a garden in the center of town called “Villino Aranci”. From then on he distanced himself from Portofino less and less until he finally left his apartment in Milan for good.
He assumed the office of president of the newly formed “Azienda di Soggiorno”. He executed the duties of this office with great distinction for many years but sadly left it when its politicizing became unbearable.
In the 1950′s, the boom years for Portofino, Gotta undoubtedly contributed to the growth of tourism and to the international reputation of Portofino.
We remembered him seated at the Excelsior Cafè, with his perennial Bitter Campari and with his many friends from the world of literature, journalism, and cinema. Among them were; Laura Adani, Renzo Ricci, Eva Magni, Luchino Visconti, the designer Biki, Fosca Leonardi, Giovanni Mosca, Orio Vergani, his editor Arnoldo Mondadori, and Mario Crespi owner of the newspaper Corriere Della Sera.
But in the long winters, the “commander”, as the Portofinians always called him, loved to talk with the sailors and fishermen, tell them his stories and listen to theirs, a Portofinian among Portofinians.
In this much beloved refuge he would continue to write until his last days, the many books and newspaper articles in which he spoke of Portofino.
In the memorial of the church of San Giorgio, above the entrance to the little cemetery that faces the sea, a sign commemorating him reads: ‘Salvator Gotta loved and lived Portofino”.

salvator-gotta-portofino

Among his many recollections, Gotta loved to tell about his first “non arrival” in Portofino.

I was in Santa Margherita visiting Pastonchi and maestro Giordano. In the afternoon we decided to take a walk and chatting while we walked, we arrived just beyond Paraggi. There, one of the two stopped to say after that point there’s a little fishing village, Portofino, it’s not worth the bother to go there, we can return”.

Some time passed, this time Gotta came to Portofino invited to the Splendido Hotel by Raffaele Calzini, already a famous journalist of the Corriere Della Sera.

It was then that Gotta ‘s love affair with Portofino began, for that’s exactly what it was.

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cesare-esposito-portofino

Cesare Esposito, born in Naples, worthy artistic heir to Vincenzo Gemito, Gaetano Esposito, and Edoardo Dalbono, lived and worked a great deal in Liguria and in Santa Margherita Ligure in particular.

As his great friend and admirer Enzo Cochetti wrote: “Cesare Esposito is a complete painter; his methods are very effective, his technique, perfect and his possibilities infinite. Attentive contemplator of nature, he found in the riviera a source of inexhaustible stimulus for his talents. Delicious waters, dense and just tones, cut with taste, sustained with effective contrasts of light and shade; wide sweeping ligurian landscapes, succinct, with exact observation“.

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santa-margherita-in-the-morning

Santa Marghenta Ligure, is one of the most picturesque little towns of the Eastern Riviera.

In summer it is a fashionable bathing resort.

The beach is mainly of pebble but there are modern bathing establishments especially after the tourist port trough Portofino. During the colder part of the year it attracts a large number of visitors, as it is a quiet, restful, sunny place.

It receives a larger amount of sunshine than its near neighbour, Rapallo, but is not quite so well sheltered. The population numbers about 9,000. In winter, tennis and boating are the chief outdoor recreations, apart from the excursions which can be made on foot or by car in the beautiful country behind the town, and in a steamer along the coast to Rapallo, Portofino, Camogli and San Fruttuoso.

Indoor amusement is catered for by a theatre, cinemas, and numerous ballrooms.

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genoa-vicoli

The history of Italy, of the Republic, of the several families, lives in the small squares now abandoned by road traffic in favour of the new thoroughfares; but the poetically minded may stop in them and lose themselves in reverie.

Architecture and the fine arts found in this town of shipbuilders and naval engineering their peculiar expression of gaiety, and a constructive style with a special tendency towards spacious courts, loggias, gardens and nymphei.

Medieval houses were given graceful loggias and embossed façades with black and white horizontal bandings and extremely tall, three shaft monumental Gothic ogee windows.

Frescoed façades and portals came into fashion at the time of the Rinascimento, so that Cattaneo and Piccolomini found the town gay with festive and coloured decorations for a population that passed its leisure among poets, music and lovemaking.

“If Venus were still alive wrote the future Pope Pius II, ” she would leave the woods of Cyprus and come and live in Genoa “.

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Portofino, along the coast.


Friday, May 15th, 2009

genoa-boccadasse

There is nothing in Italy more beautiful to me than the coast road between Genoa and Spezzia,” wrote Dickens in his Pictures from Italy, and no sooner had we turned our backs on the great seaport, but not without a tinge of regret, than it became evident that his appreciation of the Riviera di Levante still holds good.

San Martino d’Albaro, Sturla, and Quarto al Mare, the first localities to which the traveller along the Cornice conies, and the last-named famous as the place where Garibaldi, on May 5th, 1860, embarked for Sicily with the Thousand of Marseilles, are a little too near the city not to have felt its influence, but once you have passed beyond Quinto al Mare and reached Nervi, the coast scenery is every bit as fresh as in the days when this fine road was the sole means of travelling along the Ligurian littoral.

The fact that our German cousins are in complete possession of Nervi is itself a high recommendation. Wherever they hibernate, there you may be certain to find the most perfect of natural conditions. Sheltered from the north winds by Monti Moro and Giugo, Nervi is a second San Remo. The mildness of its temperature, its luxurious gardens, and the beauty of its orange and lemon groves make it one of the most desirable spots of the eastern Riviera.

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porticoes-portofino

Under the arches of the porticoes and at many of the street doors the workers-from little girls of six to wrinkled dames of seventy- sit in front of the three-legged stands which support the pillows on which their work is produced, and on all sides you hear the click of their wooden bobbins.

To an uninitiated onlooker, the dexterity of the more accomplished workers seems magical: he marvels at the rapidity with which the bobbins fly from side to side of the complicated pattern, at the unerring exactitude with which just the right ones are selected, and wonders that the innumerable threads never become entangled amidst such a forest of pins.

During the season for visitors, the streets are hung with lace; stalls, bearing every article of feminine adornment that can be made on a tombola, are erected on the piazza and at all the points where prospective buyers are likely to pass; so that how to get by without stopping to admire and purchase becomes a most difficult problem.

The fair young lace-makers invite you with such pleasant smiles and in so sweet a voice “merely to look” that it seems unmannerly to hasten away without accepting the invitation, and when you find that the price of their beautiful work is less than would satisfy the most unskilled of city toilers, you rarely resist the temptation to buy lace collars and handkerchiefs for your friends across the seas.

Three principal kinds of lace are now made at Portofino: antique, Byzantine, and Venetian.

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